Vol.3 #8
March 1, 2002

Ornamental Grasses...Part 2

This week I will continue with the discussion of ornamental grasses.  I discussed the surging popularity of the grasses last week.  In reality, we have always been surrounded with many of these grasses.  Only in recent history have we begun to use them as ornamentals.  Grasses have many shapes ranging from upright, arching, tufting, and mounding to name a few forms.

    This column will only begin to delve into this diverse group of plants.  On a "day to day" basis we see grasses growing in ponds and marshes, stabilizing steep hillsides of interstate highways, and being used as edging for landscape beds.  We also use them for turfgrass in our lawns.  Grasses are also used for wildlife plots.  The roaming Buffalo grazed in the grasses.  We have all grazed on the fruits of the genus Zea, more commonly known as "corn".

    Regarding care of our grasses in the landscape, cool season grasses should be cut back now to remove the deciduous growth from last season.  Warm season or "evergreen" grasses may only need to be cut back for the purpose of rejuvenation, but such grasses may only be hardy in hardiness Zones 8 or greater (more Southern climates).  Failure to cut back hardy, or cool season grasses in late February or early March will result in in a mixture of old, brown foliage and new, green foliage.  Rather ugly, I believe.

    The grass many of us are so enchanted with is "Pampas Grass" (Genus Cortaderia) because we see this plant when we all go to Nags Head, North Carolina.  This grass is vigorous with stark white plumes in the winter.  The grass is borderline hardy in Zone 7, but we all have a passion for its beauty.  For example, I associate it my discovery of  "Jamaican Jerk" seasoning from The Rundown Cafe, Putt Putt golf, riding the ocean waves, and not having to wake up at 6:30 AM for an entire week.  Yes, there is an attraction.  For colder climates try "Hardy Pamaps Grass" (Erianthus), as it is more hardy and similar.  While not quite as spectacular, one might need to move to North Carolina to experience "Pampas Grass".  There are some nice clumps growing in the areas, but beware of potential winter damage.

    Carex, a sedge formed from bulbets, and Liriope are often used as mounding borders.  Neither are true grasses, but are often marketed as such because of their "grass like" structure.  The genus Festuca is a true grass used for lawn establishment, including tall fescues such as "Kentucky 31" and "Rebel" fescue.  Festuca ovina glauca is "Blue Fescue", a frequently used ornamental for edging.  A shade loving turfgrass is Festuca rubra rubra or "Creeping Red Fescue", which is excellent for dense shade in regions north of Zone 8.  Years ago I recommended Creeping Red Fescue to a customer with dense shade.  The gentleman told me that it sounded like a "Commie grass" and bought none.  Turns out he was truly a CIA retiree.  Remember Colonel Flagg from MASH?

    Miscanthus is a very popular genus, especially for providing height and mass. A happy, established Miscanthus sinensis "Siberfeder" can grow 6 feet in diameter in a single season, sporting variegated foliage and large of silvery, feathery plumes.  I particularly like Miscanthus sinensis "Strictus" because of its upright and narrow habit, growing 5 to 6 feet high and 2 feet in diameter.  "Strictus" has horizontal yellow bands distributed over the long green leaves, so some people call it "Zebra Grass".

    Pennesetum is the genus with fountain grasses such as "Hamlen" or "Mouldry".  The fountain grasses tend to be shorter and more suitable incorporated into the landscape, as opposed to the background roles of the taller grasses.  The Fountain Grasses are quite beautiful is a highly recommended grass.  I would caution the landscaper who lives with a turfgrass specialist, "Beware of the seeds (not controllable) from the fountain grasses, as they thrive in the lawn and are only controlled with grass killer."  This is not an issue unless you are a perfectionist, then it is a hugh problem.

    Another interesting grass for the landscape is "Japanese Blood Grass" (Imperata cylindrical "Red Baron") sporting dark red leaves and an auburn seed head.  The plant grows to a height of 18 to 24 inches and adds color to the landscape.

    Wetland grasses include Sweet Flag (Acorus), rushes (Equisetum), Reed grass (Arundo), and cattails to name few.  Erosion controls include Switchgrass (Panicum) and Weeping Lovegrass (Egrarostis).  Meadows and wildlife plots utilize "Big Bluestem" (Andropogon), "Canada Wild Rye" (Elymus canadensis), and Switchgrass (Panicum).

    This has been my longest column and only touches "the tip of the iceburg".  Thanks for tuning in.  Gotta go sign paychecks now,  lest we have mutiny.  Have a good week.

                                                                            Andy Lynn