Vol.3 #24
June 28, 2002

My Kingdom For A Ramp

    A “ramp” is a form of wild garlic found on the hillsides of the Appalachian Mountains in the spring of the year.  I would tell you that they grow on the north side of a shady slope, but this might not be correct.  While I’ve seen them in the wild, this has been over 25 years ago.  Generally, they have a short growing season.  However, they can be found over a period of 3 months if you are so inclined to travel the Appalachian Trail from New York to Georgia.  I’m not sure if they grow in Maine.

    So what’s the big deal about a ramp!  Onions and garlic are members of the Allium genus.  They come in many forms from shallots to chives to flowering onions, etc.  I thought of ramps while conversing with a young man in Berkeley Springs, W. Va. this weekend.  Ramps are an essential part of his preparation of New York Strip.  The fellow has an upscale restaurant in Berkley Springs, previously had a restaurant in Nags Head, N.C., and was trained at the chef’s school at the Greenbrier Hotel in White Sulpher Springs, W. Va., not far from where I grew up.  Not too shabby considering this is one of the finest culinary schools in the world.  I lived in this town for a brief period in the 4th grade and used to converse with the recently passed Sam Snead on the street.  Mr. Snead was the golf pro at the Greenbrier, but a regular resident in town.  We all have to live somewhere.

    Ramps are rather much like Habenero peppers in that their flavor is appealing in moderation.  Habeneros are over 20 times hotter than a Jalapeno pepper, but render a unique and delightful flavoring when properly used.  While ramps are not particularly hot, they too render some negative results when ingested in large doses.

    The garlicky ramp arises from ones pores when eaten in quantity.  Many of the mountain folks indulge heavily in ramp season as a family tradition.  In school, you could literally smell a horrible odor from two rows away.  “Ramp fever” knows no age barrier.  I recall Principle Booth excusing Tim Morgan from school for 3 days with no penalty, provided he agreed to eat no more ramps.  I kid you not!

    Ramp and bear suppers were big in our area.  The ramps were usually stewed in large vats and didn’t really hit me just right.  Mr. Livesey would save his whole two weeks annual vacation for ramp season.  I recall him sitting in his back yard frying ramps in an open pan, as his wife would not have him cooking them inside.  An absolute obsession to the man.

    The last encounter I had with ramps was 4 or 5 years ago.  My neighbors down the street had cousins in from my hometown of Ronceverte, W. Va. It is pronounced “Rons-Vert” with a French translation of “Briers (are always) Green”.  We always knew we had a lost tourist in town when they stopped to ask how to get out of “Roncy-Verty”.  Take a left, take a right...it ain’t complicated with one main drag.  The unfamiliar vehicle was also a clue.  I enjoyed growing up in a small town.

    Back to the subject.  My neighbor’s cousin had a couple of grocery bags of ramps and generously allowed me to help myself.  I took them home and cleaned them with water, trimming the inch wide leaves down.  I munched on the discarded trimmings rather than placing them in the garbage disposal.  This should let you know how tasty they are since the garbage disposal is my version of a motorcycle...loud and dangerous.  I placed the onions with trimmed leaves in pint jars filled with warmed cider vinegar and water, and loosely screwed the tops on.  I had about a half dozen pints, which lasted a couple of months.

    I would graze on the pickled ramps from time to time over the course of the next couple of months until, alas, they were all gone.  I saved them for special occasions like when I was in the kitchen, passing the kitchen on the way to the living room, etc.  I took great care not to gorge myself for fear my secret treasure might be discovered via the odor.  A rare treat indeed.  Should you ever encounter ramps some spring, do not be afraid.  Better yet, take a ride to Berkeley Springs sometime.  I don’t recall the name of the restaurant, but it is open in the evenings Wednesday through Sunday.  Have a good week.

Andy Lynn