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ROSE CARE TIPS

SELECTION:  There are 3 GRADES OF ROSES.

  • Grade 2 - one stem and fairly poor development.

  • Reds and pinks are generally more disease resistant and winter hardy than white and yellow in the tea roses.
    CLASSES OF ROSES: PLANTING SITE SELECTION:

    PLANTING:
    Dig a hole 18 inches to 24 inches wide and 12 inches to 18 inches deep.  Soil should contain approximately 50% humus (such as peat, composted manure or compost) 50% of the original soil and a handful of bone meal.  Always spread the roots in the planting hole.  Bottom of the bud graft should be 1 inch above soil.

    FEEDING:
    Recommended feeding schedule might be:
        1.  Early spring (April 1)
        2.  At the close of June blooming.
        3.  Not later than 2 months prior to dormancy.

    Fertilizing late in the season (after mid September) stimulates tender growth, which will be damaged by winter.  Slow release fertilizers (Osmocote or Mills Magic Rose Mix) may be used for the convenience of infrequent feeding.  Another method would be to fertilize once a month from April 1 through September 1 with a dry form of rose food.

    WATERING:
    Use a regular watering schedule (as needed) is the most important factor in the health of roses.  We recommend watering once a week when adequate rainfall is missing.  A healthy plant gives maximum bloom, suffers less disease and sustains winter cold and summer heat with less damage.

    MULCHING:
    Mulch to 2 inches during growing season to help retain moisture.  Porous mulch i.e. pine bark or pine needles are good choices.

    PRUNING:
    Spring: Prune before spring growth begins - in Fredericksburg (this is April 1).  Prune teas and floribundas back to 4 to 6 strong canes with a length of 12 to 18 inches.  Some Climbers bloom on previous season's growth and should be limited to the removal of unwanted growth and renewal (cutting out some old canes).

    Summer: Prune off old blooms (dead heading) to encourage production of new blooms rather than seed.  Most pruning for shape should be done when blooms are cut.  Normally, cuts should be made just above the first or, at most, the second five leaflet leaf.  Suckers than grow from below the crown should be cut out at the socket.

    Winter:  Prune December 1st.  to 36 inches.



    WINTERIZATION:
    Discontinue feeding after mid September.  Discontinue "deadheading" after October 1.  After defoliation (mid-Nov), cut teas and floribundas to 36 inches and clean away all old mulch and debris.  Mulch canes to a depth of 12-18 inches with a loose material such as leaves or compost.  This mulch is removed in the spring as soon as no more 20 degrees nights occur.  If a dry winter occurs, necessary watering should be done on a mild day.

    DISEASE & PESTS:
    Roses are a favorite of Japanese beetles and aphids as well as black spot.  You may prevent these by using Sevin for the chewers (beetles) and Orthene or Merit for the suckers (aphids, mites).  You may prevent disease by using Daconil or Funginex.  A good spray schedule might be every other week beginning early April.  Take care not to spray too often with insecticide as this may burn foliage.  A product called Orthonex is popular and effective because it contains two systemics - Orthene for bugs and Funginex for diseases.  Add Sevin during the beetle swarm and you'll probably be fine.  These products can often be mixed for spraying; check package directions and/or your dealer.

    Resources:
    Roses by Roy E. Shepard, Rinehart & Co., Inc., 1954
    Growing Better Roses by Fred J. Nisbet, Alfred A. Knopf, Inc., 1973

    Roxbury Farm & Garden Center
    Fredericksburg, VA.  22401
    updated: 02-05-01