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The gardener should now be assembling an arsenal of seeding starting supplies
to embark upon a successful garden season. The most attractive thing
about starting your own seeds is the fact that you can say you grew your
own plants from scratch. This practice eliminates mix ups on varieties
and gives you that "homegrown" feeling. Seed starting also helps
with the gardener who is plagued by cabin fever. Sprouting those
seeds makes you feel ten degrees warmer. Choose your seeds, select
your target dates for finished plants, select the correct pots, and use
the best soil for the job. Many newer varieties as well as hard to
find plants are available widely in seed form. New or old, you will
need to develop a time table for your finished products.
Cooler season plants such as broccoli, brussel sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, and lettuce germinate quickly (4-10 days) in a cooler soil temperature of 60-70 degrees. The plants need about 5 to 6 weeks to reach size enough for outdoor growth. These plants should be set out in late March, so start your seed in early February.
Tomatoes, eggplant, and peppers should be planted in mid February for early
May transplant. Tomato and eggplant like a soil temperature of 70
degrees, need 7-14 days to germinate, and are ready for transplant in 6
to 8 weeks. Peppers need a high soil temperature of 75+ degrees,
8-14 days to germinate and 6-8 weeks to develop a plant. Start peppers
in mid March to set out during the last half of May. These guys do
not like cold weather, especially pepper, so don't be too anxious.
Some other veggies that require warm soil and warm weather are cucumbers, cantaloupe, squash, pumpkins, and watermelon. These seeds germinate quickly (5-10 days) and are ready for transplant in 3-4 weeks. They are no brainers as long as you don't plant them out too early. Start indoors in mid April to set out in midday.
Many flowers take longer to develop a transplant, so timing is important.
Here is a small sampling:
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Impatiens | 18 days | 60 degrees | 8 to 10 weeks | Feb. 1 | May 1 |
Marigold | 7 days | 70-75 degrees | 9 weeks | Feb. 15 | May 1 |
Nasturtium | 14-21 days | 70 degrees | 7-8 weeks | Feb. 15 | May 1 |
Petunia | 7-10 days | 80 degrees | 10 weeks | Feb. 1 | May 1 |
Salvia | 14 days | 70 degrees | 10 weeks | Feb. 1 | May 1 |
Verbena | 14-21 days | 70 degrees | 10 weeks | Feb. 1 | May 1 |
Zinnia | 5 days | 70 degrees | 6-8 weeks | Mar. 1 | May 1 |
Choose a soil that retains moisture and drains well. Most seed starting mixes are "soil-less" in that they are made up of peat moss, which holds moisture, a drainage additive such as perlite, and a little starter fertilizer. Moisten the soil and loosely fill pots ranging in size from 2 to 4 inches in diameter and depth. Put 2 or 3 seeds per pot on the surface of the potting mix and gently tamp them in with a pencil eraser to a depth of 1/8 to 1/4" depending on the seed. The larger the seed, the deeper you should plant.
Place the trays in a draft free area with a moderate amount of light. Too much or too little light will yield a weak, "spindly" seedling. A "grow light" which has only ultraviolet and infrared light will give the best results. Keep the surface moist by gently misting the surface every day or so. Humidity domes are available or you may fashion your own humidity cover using Saran wrap and toothpicks. Sometimes a raise the corner of my plastic humidity dome for a little ventilation. You must have humidity to keep the surface of the soil moist for good germination, but too much moisture cause "damping off" which can be lethal to seedlings. "Damping off" (botrytis, grey mold) is driven by high moisture and cool temperatures, so make sure your soil is warm enough to meet the minimum germination temperatures of your particular seed. After your seedling has developed some root depth, you may remove the humidity dome and water less frequently, but more thoroughly.
Once your transplant is ready for the great outdoors, it must be "hardened
off". The seedling has never been exposed to hot sun, wind, and rain.
Such exposure must be a gradual process of about a week. An hour
outside the first day, two hours the next day, etc. The other danger
to watch out for is frosty weather. The only plants listed above
that can survive any frost ae the cool season cabbage family, and even
these guys can deal with a deep freeze. Happy planting.
Andy Lynn